Sixth Blog Post. Penultimate.

 I can feel my confidence growing as I enter my third month in Taiwan,

I booked a hairdressing appointment for myself and bought some cream for bites. Two things Teresa has done for me until now. I go off the beaten track now and trust I will find my way back.

 

The wee pub I mentioned last time that you might see at home.

 A park near here is about to open; today is the first glimpse we have seen,

I have not seen the sky like this here in Taipei.We have been warned about a possible typhoon hitting Taiwan for the last two days ; so far nothing  has happened  except this beautiful sky.

Love this tile near the local park..

First police car I have seen in nine weeks. I saw an ambulance for the first time a few days ago.

In Ullet Road I see and hear police cars and ambulances almost every day.

 

I was wakened in the night with loud banging and howling gales; it was a little bit alarming until I realised that it was very very windy  but probably safe ;it sounded much worse up here on the top floor with the shutters all rattling. I made some tea watched from the kitchen window. I saw some cars and bikes out and about at 2.00 AM and all the city lights twinkling including the Taipei 101 tower I felt reassured. I managed to sleep again but was wakened every now and again with what sounded like thunder claps.

I can't capture the sound of the wind or let you see the rain.  You can see the view was limited and very grey.

I am happy to say my hairdressing appointment was successful; I like having my hair done in a place I cannot  speak the language. It is much more peaceful; this place had no music on which I liked. The woman who did my hair was the only one in the shop. She cut it first then washed it and massaged  my head; it was a great massage about 5 minutes of very deep pressure followed by a very gentle massage, she then dried me hair it was all very relaxing.All of that for 600 TWD ( £15)

Before

 

After
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I went for a coffee after and hip hip hooray I finally finished Taroko Gorge

I found a classy wine cellar today on my walk. They are few and far between . I went  in for a wee browse and much to my delight I saw this 

I could hardly believe it .I have not seen this in Liverpool. I told the young man in the shop I was on holiday from Liverpool;  he was just as surprised to hear that as I was to find the Gin.

I did not buy it. I bought some white wine because I am going out for dinner on Saturday and want to take some with me. It cost an arm and a leg I would never spend that much at home. The most expensive wine I buy at home is Oyster Bay  Sauv Blanc and only when I have guests. My favourite is  Muscadet from France John introduced me to it about 40 years ago; still delicious.

I went into Taipei Main Station today to rehearse where to go tomorrow for my coach trip and tour of Keelung. It was a bit confusing but in the end I found it and I know what to do tomorrow .

I met Philip for coffee as he was in town, we ended up have coffee in a sweet cafe with a lovely black cat who came and sat by me.

In case you are not sure :)

We then went to the Museum of Contemporary Art. We had lunch first  then a good look around: 

Safe Space was the idea behind the various exhibits. Some I did not understand some were cute the one that moved me to tears was a film we watched with subtitles.A group of children were all given different coloured masks and then told the children with their coloured mask were like them their tribe; children with other colours were not to be trusted for various reasons.  Later the children were all asked how it felt be separated from others.

The children's answers moved me to tears; " isolated" "sad"  "wrong" reinforcing my belief we all have an innate desire to belong.  They  then took their masks off ,tore them up and threw them away. Then joined together filled with joy and laughter.

There was a water pipe talking into a microphone saying what it felt like carrying the water; I gave it a long time but in the end I had no clue what the idea was. 

The very words " safe place" makes us realise there is danger.

We then went back to Alleycats for food and a beer; it was a lovely special day ;especially as it is so rare for Philip and I to have an unexpected day meeting up.

My day out to Keelung started at 6.00 AM and it was pouring of rain never the less I resisted getting a taxi as I had rehearsed getting there on the MRT,

My journey to Taipei Main was very smooth. I was first in our group to arrive. I got an iced oolong tea and waited to see people dressed in yellow tea shirts ( tour guides)  , or shirts with Klook ( booking agent) on them. I eventually saw both. Joe was our guide a very nice friendly Taiwanese man with an American accent. Most of the people on the tour were from The Philippines  they were in big groups and a few couples; I was the only western person and the only solo traveller. Joe came to me and said "you are Helen Collins. "

I got my sticker and was added to the Whatsapp group which was how he contacted us during the day ,with meeting times and pictures of where we were to meet. It was very helpful.

When we started off we saw a ten minute video of why we should wear out seat belts; really horrific pictures of busses on fire. I am surprised any of us stayed on the bus. 

I was in a back seat by the window with four others, Joe shouted Helen would you like to sit in the front seat by the driver. I said yes ; due to the rain we were all drooket and had umbrellas with us. I was so comfortable at the front and did not have to try to have stilted conversations with folk.

 

Our first stop was at Yehlui Geopark

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The big attraction is a rock that looks like Princess Nefertiti but all the rocks are amazing and it is by the sea beautiful area,

 

Sadly the rock is being eroded and there are mirror pictures of how then neck thinner and thinner over the years.

School trips the same the world over.

Next we went to see the Golden Waterfall; the bus went up and up and round z bends I was amazed at the drivers skill.

 

It was a peaceful moment; Joe said " there is not much water today" surprising when it was pouring down.

A disused refinery built into the mountains back in the day this area was full of miners .

Picture in the rain opposite the refinery.

We then went up and up again to see Jiufen Old Street now a tourist are but once where the miners and their families lived. We had to climb hundreds  of steps to get to the top; some of our group could not do it; as I

was the oldest person I was pleased with myself ; I got to the top.

It is amazing and worth a visit if you are fit enough; all that is there now are places to eat and buy trinkets; it must have been incredible back in the day ;I could not imagine how people lived and worked up there.

I went back down to sit on a rock in the car park and enjoy this view.

After lunch off to another Waterfall; this was my highlight of the day.

We had to walk across a very shooglie bridge; but it was not as scary as the rope bridge at Toroko Gorge.

This is a beautiful area altogether .What was noticeable was how people took pictures and videos of them selves here ; and did not seem to  take in the sheer beauty of the place.

Even here there was food and gift shops 

Love this picture and the hat. I saw one earlier at the Lehliu Geo park

Lastly off to the old rarelyused  railway line , one time it was thriving with real life. Folk lived on either side of the railway lines. 

Today it is know as the lantern area; there are so many shops selling colourful lanterns encouraging you to write you wishes on them and send them up to the gods. They say it is a very old tradition. Trains still use the track occasionally  and people simply get off till it passes.

 

I watched with great interest but did not join in. I met a young woman from the bus here; she carried my back pack and was very interested in my life , why I looked so young " did I drink alcohol or smoke" she seemed sad; she got a lantern and wrote lots of dreams and wishes on them; I hope they come true for her.

I had a quiet few days after my big tour.  

Yesterday I saw in our tiny local temple about ten people in bright yellow robes singing a beautiful song . 

 

 I went to the post office and got a lovely smile and wave from a woman in there who usually serves me  not today. though  

I then went into Shandeo Temple .

It is a beautiful space; the word that comes to mind is reverence. It was completely silent; no incense burning ; it was very fresh and filled with peace.

Shandeo is a modern temple 

It is on the second floor of the building. all around there are classes going on .There are elderly men in long brown robes doing various jobs.

The seats are all light green and individual; on the table in front of the seat is a red cloth covering the holy book.

I saw a few people sitting reading their copy then reverently covering it again then bowing to the Buddha at the front before taking their leave.

I sat still in the silence for twenty minutes and got in touch with a deep down tiredness and I felt emotional.

It was a very beautiful and spiritual experience. I prefer it to the singing and preaching. 

On my way home I bought some local pineapple cake and a honey cake to take to Kelsey and Ste tomorrow evening. Before we eat he is taking me for a ride on his motor bike .I am very excited.

Today I met P&T at Longshan Temple one of the oldest here in Taipei. 

Significance. Longshan Temple was the center of religion, self-governance, and self-defense for Manka locals during the Qing Dynasty. It is considered to be one of the three great temples of Taipei, along with Manka Qingshui Temple and Dalongdong Baoan Temple.

                                                         400 hundred years old
Longshan is dedicated to the bodhisattva of mercy, Guanyin, though in true Taiwanese style there are over 100 other gods and goddesses worshipped in the rear and side halls.

It was 36 degrees ;after we visited the Temple we went for a local dessert.Ice Shards with a choice of four toppings over it. It was delicious I also had pure melon juice with ice; very refreshing.

Ice shard dessert

A local gods birthday' a street show was on to celebrate.

P&T enjoying the ice shard.

After the afternoon at the Longshan Temple area we got on the MRT and went to a new area of Taipei for me where Ste and Kelsey live.

The area reminded of the area of Brussels my nephew lives in. We saw a lot of government buildings from their lovely balcony. I loved their apartment it was very 
up market and quite luxurious.

We had lovely food and wine and a delightful evening of interesting conversations.

The highlight for me was that Ste took me for an exhilarating and exciting ride on his gorgeous motor bike. I was astounded to discover that our helmets allowed us to communicate with each other during the ride.While we were out the heavens opened and we got drooket, I did not mind at all it all added to the joy of the experience. Philip Teresa and Kelsey took pictures of us ; I was touched to hear Philip saying how terrified he was when he saw me riding off; and  he apologised for all the times I felt  terrified about his adventures.

"It is true that when we take chances, we stand to lose. But it is also true that we will never win anything if we never even enter the game."

The bin men come every evening around 8.00PM  they play a delightful tune to let folk know they are there. The trucks are lit up. Our concierge takes out our bins; but folk who live in apartments without a concierge hear the music and run down with their pink bags of waste.

Today after my Monday morning housework ;I went to visit Confucius Temple; It is in an area I like near Taipei Expo Park and Maji ( food court) 

It was great to go on a Monday when  it was very quiet. It is a beautiful old Temple filled with colourful Buddhas  flowers and fruit ( gifts for the gods ) the air is heavy with incense. 

I bought a few gifts and some incense, I lit some incense to many gods wishing for health wealth and happiness for my family my friends and my ancestors ( when in Rome)

I love these temples they are all so different.

I then went to my favourite cafe at Maji and had coffee and quiche; amazing to have a taste of home.

My next day was very hot I went for a walk in the morning and the evening with a siesta in between. I took a dress and a top to be altered to a woman who lives and works in a wee shop a few doors down from here. Using body language we managed to communicate what was needed. 

She indicated on the calendar when I could collect them. In fact she got it done sooner and called Trs to let me know they were ready; "How did she know to call Trs?" she had seen me passing with Philip so knew Trs would let me know . 

She did a beautiful sewing job on the dress and the top she also ironed both items for me and charged me 380 TWD  ( about £9) 

The following day I went back to Chiang Kai -shek  Memorial Hall because I love it there and there was a Turner Exhibition on . The last time I was there I saw a lovely blouse I really liked with Taiwanese lettering on two front  panels; it was about £70 and I did not know how much I would spend during my trip; so I decided if I had enough money nearer the end of my time here I would go back for it.

I decided I could treat myself to the blouse something nice from Taiwan. Of course it was gone.

I then saw a gorgeous short kimono style silk jacket. I thought is was a little more expensive but still affordable; I asked to try it on; GORGEOUS. When I checked the price she showed me on her calculator. 

It is TWD 22,600 ( £572) she would give it to me for TWD 18, 600 ( £471) obviously way out of my price range. I am glad I did not have my credit card with me; I might have been tempted.  

I could see my self wearing it for a special occasion and also with a pair of jeans; it was that kind of thing.

I still had a great day out; it is a beautiful space and I had gorgeous ice green tea with grapefruit chunks in it. 

When I left the place it was unbearable heat; the only thing that could happen was a rain storm I thought; As I passed the theatre I decided it was time for a wee bite. I went into one of the cafes there and had a hot latte and an apple tart. It was lovely. When I left and got to the front door I could see and hear the torrential rain. I know after over two months here" never go out without an umbrella" sadly I did.

I stayed in the foyer for a while but it was relentless; I put on my sun hat and held a silk shawl over my head and ran to the MRT but although it was a shot run I was soaked through; I was wearing a while skirt and  the rain made it see through; my hair was clinging to my head; as my mother used to say 

" the sights you see when you have not got your gun"

I took the two trains back to Donghu and got an Uber from there it was only 86 TWD about £2. 

I went straight into the shower and put all my clothes into the washer.I still find it strange to be soaked through and still it s too hot.

I had quite a day and was still home in time to be ready for a client I was zooming at 6.00 PM

 

When I stayed in the city apartment with Philip and Teresa we always went to a wee cafe across the road for Dan Bing on a Sunday morning.

I have not been over since I moved in here. Today I went over and ordered my cheese Dan Bing and a hot black coffee. Both were delicious.

Dan Bing and coffee.

They are served hot .I think  that the best way to eat them. I have them with a little cheese , you can have them lots of fillings. 

The cost of this delightful breakfast in 80 TWD ( £2)  Here in Taiwan tips are not expected; I tried to give the 100 dollar but he bowed to me and said no no and gave me the 20 twd back. ( lesson Learned) 

In some big places in Taipei of course  the tips are even added on; but round here it is not done.

Philip warned me that around 1.00 PM Taiwan was having an invasion warning; people usually get the warning on their phones; for invasion, typhoon and earthquakes.

I was so glad Philip told me ; even with the warning it is alarming; the streets are quiet and there is a big police presence. 

It is a horrible piercing sound .It made me think about the war and the air raid warnings; It must have been a terrible thing to experience.

Although it was scary it was a wee bit exciting because I knew it was a rehearsal; They have them quite regularly. When it was over I relaxed a bit then after five minutes it went off again. I nearly had a heart attack.  There are signs around all areas showing you where to go if a real one happens.

I have been reading a book about the history of Taiwan which is fascinating .It is terrible what they have had to put up with. The experts seem to be split about the likely hood of an invasion by China.

The Taiwan Story ; How a Small Island Will Dictate the Global Future. By Kerry Brown

Obviously it is complicated and there are so many views on this.

When I had recovered from this I had a lovely long zoom session with Susan my "best " friend.

I then had a siesta because it was melting hot . Later when it was cool 29 degrees I went out for my evening walk. 

 

All the shops and cafes are opened and it feels quite festive when I go out on my evening walk,

One of my favourite teas; Plum and Kumquat Green Tea.

Medium cup, normal ice, no sugar.

An evening walk lovely thing to do as everything is opened here in the evenings; Including  Doctors Dentists Opticians 

My son pays about 500 TWD ( £12.50) each month towards health care. You can just pop in to any clinic any time no need for an appointment. You pay a little each  time and  it works well and everyone I have met waxes lyrical about the health care here in Taiwan.

 

It is 36 degrees today and I am going to Pier 5 to meet Philip and a few of his friends. I have decided to go in an Uber it is just to hot to walk to the Donghu MRT today.

WE had a lovely evening sitting on the upstair landings with beautiful views over the sea and the whole area, the food smells were wonderful , the place has a  great vibe especially for a Friday night. I was there first.

I sat on a high stool by the sea 

 then I went for a wee walk to take some picture and met Ste and Ravel; We then went to the landing. I had not see Ravel since the Dragon Boat Race so it was good to catch up again. As the evening wore on Philip arrived then James then Brian and finally much later Trs came.It was a very fun festive evening I love being with all the young folk chatting people watching and watching the sun go down

I left around this point I had an Australian fizzy drink and  some white wine; you can see how much beer the guys got through. 

. 

Ravel getting the beers in.

On Saturday I went to Bennett's book group; I met him at the beginning of my stay here ; he told me about his monthly book group. I thought it sounded interesting ; they each read a different  book then talk about it to the group. . It was very interesting ; I talked about Lessons in Chemistry  a book I loved and bought for everybody; I was so shocked when some people did not enjoy it at all or as much as I did, The group consisted of three Americans one Taiwanese a Welsh guy and me from Scotland. All were very political and very left wing; I was in good company. I met two trans folk who were open and interesting. 

Darren from Wales and me From Scotland the two celts in the group !

 

We talked about the importance of books in the group then I came across  this after I left; I grew up knowing about Andrew Carnegie. What would he make of so many  libraries closing?

One of my mothers favourite sayings, when we asked her for something was 

" who do you think I am ; Carnegie?"

I went from there to meet P&T and have dinner with Em and Yeng ,Trs parents. It was a nice relaxing few hours in a very local Taiwanese restaurant close to their home.They offered to take us next Friday to the Ka La Van whiskey refinery about an hours drive for them. We all said "yes please."

Philip Trs and I went to have a look round the very lively area after saying goodbye to Em and Yeng.

We found  a nice bar and shared a bottle of wine. We had cold sweet tea with dinner.

The flower market has been on my list of places to go since I arrived. Philip and I had a free Sunday today and we finally met at Daan Park MRT which is a really nice MRT station with  has a cafe and park around it. 

We walked to the nearby flower market and spent about three hours walking around being delighted by the amazing unusual ( to me at least ) plants  and flowers. I wanted to buy P&T a plants for their balcony ; We decided to walk up one side of the area and then back down the other side before choosing from the almost overwhelming choice of plants.Half way through we nipped out to a Seven Eleven for a coffee. Philip had some tea eggs too.

Staghorn Plant

 

These are some of the wonders we saw. Philip loves the Staghorn plants in particular.

I was enchanted by everything; each person selling the plants were so interested in their plants and keen to tell you how to take care of them. Philip eventually chose his gift from me and then bought lots of plants for him and Teresa's balcony. Philip likes very unusual plants which I think are the kind of things that give the people who make Si-Fi films ideas.

Across the road from the flower market there is another market which sells all kinds of delights including  wooden  furniture, beautiful teas, crystals ,jewellery and lots more . I noticed in there that the crystals that I often buy at the Albert Dock are about a quarter of the price here.

It is 1.00 AM as I am typing this. I could not sleep it is very hot. I decided to get up for a cup of tea .

I am very aware how quickly this three month adventure is approaching the end. It is 21st July and I leave on August 7th. 

I still have lots of nice things to experience before that including a visit to the South,Kaohsiung and a day trip to swim with turtles.

`Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.''